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  The missing gap, a bridge from gemology to reality

By Menahem Sevdermish, FGA D.Litt.
March 30, 2015


When you're finally done with your gemology course, especially if you pass the exams with distinction, as I did, you think you are on top of the world. You know it all. Just a few months in the business and you're ready to rock and roll.

But then, reality hits you in the face. What has gemology got to do with the real world?

So here you are, a brilliant gemologist, able to determine that the stone is a natural, untreated ruby of 10 carats. And don't get me wrong. That in itself is a worthy achievement. But to be able to do something with that knowledge, you need to know the stone's value. Simply stated, how much should you pay for it? How much should you sell it for?

Are you aware that a ruby's price may vary from $10 a carat for a low-quality opaque stone to almost $1 million dollars per carat for the finest "Pigeon blood" Burmese-origin gem?

Take sapphires as another example. The same-size stone may range in price from a few dollars per carat to a couple of hundred thousand dollars per carat for a Kashmir-origin gem displaying the renowned velvety "royal blue" color.

And speaking of color, what does "pigeon blood" look like, and what is "royal blue," to name just a few of the commercial terms used so often in the trade?

And what about the alexandrite color-change effect? What is considered good and what is mediocre?

Since there are only a limited number of such gems in the world, where on earth would you be able to familiarize yourselves with their colors, study them, and learn their subtle differences and qualities, including the effects of make, clarity and size on value?

Can you even imagine how long it would take even a veteran gemologist to come across, in the real world, all the colors, grades and qualities of rubies, sapphires, emeralds and tanzanites, not to mention the dozens of other gem types? At a rate that a decent gemologist can absorb the necessary information, I have "roughly calculated" that you'll probably need 38 years, 6 months and 10 days to study most qualities of gems, providing you are in the right place, at the right time.

With diamonds the process is relatively simple. Determine the color, clarity and quality of cut, or simply get hold of a GIA certificate, and then check the Rapaport pricelist. Make sure you know the current discount or markup for a stone of that quality, and you are on your way.

But with gemstones the job is considerably more difficult, for there are two "minor" problems to overcome. First, there are a great many different gemstone types out there, and, second, for each gem type the color is graded and valued in a different way.

With diamonds an E is always a better color than a G. But with gemstones, the question as to what is the better color very much depends on the stone.

A certain color in a Paraiba tourmaline may be worth $30,000 per carat, while a sapphire of the same color is priced for merely a few thousand dollars per carat. Adding a grayish tint to this sapphire may improve or reduce its value.

What are you to do?

Common sense would suggest that, as the size of the stone increases, so does the price per carat. This is generally the case, but not all the time. You may be surprised to learn that with certain gems, the larger they are, even in the same quality, their price per carat falls. This occurs with amethyst, red garnet and aquamarine. Gems of these types weighing more than 100 carats command less per carat than stones of the same quality weighing 20 carats.

There are yet many more intricacies, and unless one deals with a very narrow range of gemstones, it is practically impossible to train a newcomer to the trade. An inordinate amount of time and effort is required before one becomes proficient enough to be set loose in the market, and even more time is required to be allowed to take independent decisions. As a gem dealer, I learned that rule the hard way.

I have always imagined how great it would be if the required knowledge could be imparted to our employees through the mechanisms of a course. Is it possible to teach students the essence of gem grading and pricing in such a way that, when they complete their studies, they will have sufficient knowledge to manage adequately in the trade? Such a course could greatly shorten the required training time from a few years to just a few months.

Such a dream has just become a reality. The Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) recently launched a new online Coloured Stones Grading Course that achieves just that. Created together with Gemewizard® and based on its technology, the course acts as a bridge, enabling participants to traverse the huge gap between the academic gemological world with the practical gem and jewelry trade.

This course incorporates the vast knowledge-base of Gemewizard's revolutionary system, and for the first time, students are able to visually view a large number of different gem types with varying properties and colors, analyze them, grade them and produce real time values. By so doing, they better understand the effects that the various properties have on the gems' values.

The online course provides concentrated knowledge that could never be obtained anywhere else in such a short time. Standing here now with the perspective of decades in the trade, I can honestly say that I wish I had something like this available back when I graduated. Traveling along the road of the gems and jewelry trade, I can think back on quite a few potholes and pitfalls I may have been able to avoid. Mind you, at my age, I would have probably ended up with similar knowledge of the trade, but with considerably more hair on the top of my head.

For more information about the course, please visit www.gem-a.com or email education@gem-a.com.

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